Deddeh Howard, a Liberia-born, L.A.-based model and blogger,
was fed up with seeing fashion campaigns feature so few models of color. So,
with the help of her photographer boyfriend Raffael Dickreuter, she re-created
major campaigns from brands like Chanel and Gucci fronted by Gisele Bündchen,
Gigi Hadid, Kate Moss, and more. She took three months to put it together,
making sure photos would look as close to identical as possible from the
clothes and accessories to the poses and expressions on her face.
Howard, 27, titled the project Black Mirror and launched it
on her blog Tuesday with a call for more inclusivity in the fashion industry.
"In a time where Black people too often are in the media for being
underrepresented at important events such as the Oscars or make headlines for
being targeted by the police I felt it was time to do something positive and
inspiring about my race," she writes. "I'm personally fighting for
more diversity."
Howard has been modeling since she was 18 years old and says
being rejected for opportunities because of her skin color "crushed"
her at that young age. "To be told that there were only one or two Black
girls like Naomi [Campbell] and Iman to represent me, it was just very damaging
to my image. I always felt like I didn't fit in or like the white girl was more
beautiful than I am," she recalls. "It just really affected my
self-esteem growing up."
She says oftentimes brands wouldn't cast her because they
had already fulfilled some unwritten quota on black models. "My
frustration was: Are you serious? Do you think that one girl can represent me?
Are you telling me that this girl looks like me?" Howard says. "What
really frustrated me was the look that they gave me. They looked me in the eyes
and told me, 'Wow you're striking and beautiful and we totally think you can
walk, but we have someone black already.'"
"You have 100 white girls but you only have two or
three black girls—and you're turning me down because of that? It's such a shame
that they try to cast a couple and are like, 'This girl represents
everybody,'" Howard says. "Like Victoria's Secret—they cast the same
black girl and they use her all the time. Do you not believe another girl can
do the same thing she's doing?"
Howard chose brands she likes personally and models she
looks up to, like Kate Moss and Candice Swanepoel. "We wanted to show the
world that whatever she can do, I can do the exact same thing," she says.
"The way she curves her body, I can curve my body the exact same way—if
you need a sexy, diverse model, there is a sexy, diverse model. You just need
to include her."
As for aspiring models of color, Howard offers this advice:
"Never give up. Keep trying like I did. I want them to know that they have
a chance and I hope after this, someone can see a [black model] and give them a
chance. I want them to stand up for themselves, speak up, and not shy
away."
elle.com
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